Everything you should know about surfing

Surfing is an extreme kind of sport that can be characterized as riding waves on a special board in an upright or prone position. People who are in for this sport are referred to as surfers. This activity is becoming more and more popular, and there are many reasons for it.

Classical surfing

Surfing is traditionally divided into two types. The first one is called ‘classical surfing’ and it is fully dedicated to practicing basic skills. Classical surfing includes bodysurfing which is basically riding the waves without any equipment such as boards. Sportsmen use their own body to navigate. As soon as one becomes familiar with all ins and outs of bodysurfing, they can move to the next stage, which is learning to use the surfboard.

Extreme surfing

This category includes various types of surfing:

  • Wakesurfing is popular where there are no oceans or seas with big waves. In this case, sportsmen follow the boat and then ride the wave it has created.
  • Windsurfing is known as riding the waves on a board with a sail. To navigate, it is necessary to tilt the mast.
  • Bodyboarding is a type of surfing that requires not only a surfing board, but also a pair of flippers. A sportsman has to lie on the board.
  • Kitesurfing is the most spectacular type. The board is navigated with the help of a kite.
  • Kneeboarding is a way of riding the ways while standing on one’s knees.

Those were several types of extreme surfing. Of course, there are many more of them.

Learning

As surfing is a part of culture of many cities, there are surf schools offering lessons almost everywhere where there is sea. Those who want to get more advanced skills and knowledge usually go to surf camps. They offer lessons as well as surfboards, meals and overnight accommodations.

The very first lessons start with instructions and safety briefings. Professional instructors do their best to teach their students how to navigate and what to do in case of emergency or if anything unexpected happens.

Surfing is generally broken into four basic skills:

  • Paddling strength. This sport relies on the integrity of the muscles and the strength endurance of the shoulder joint. To surf successfully one needs to work out regularly and pay attention to the upper part of the body. Various rotations, core exercises and planks are aimed for gaining muscles.
  • Positioning to catch the wave. It is necessary to learn to catch waves with a professional instructor.
  • It is important to move quickly when the waves set and break and to predict when it will happen.
  • This skill is a must for those who want to stand on a surfboard. One can do balance-training exercises on land or practice with a balance board.

Stages of a wave

When it comes to catching a wave, it is very important to be patient enough to wait for the right moment. There are several stages of waves.

  1. When the wave is a bump, it is impossible to catch it. This is only an indication that soon there will be a bigger wave.
  2. The second stage is perfect for sportsmen to paddle in. So-called ‘green waves’ are unbroken and perfectly powerful.
  3. The next stage is concerned with breaking of the wave. It is too vertical and is beginning to crash down. It is extremely hard and risky to catch it, especially if you are only a beginner.
  4. Finally, the wave has broken and can be described as ‘white water wave’.

How to catch a wave

The process of catching a wave is rather complicated, as it requires a lot of physical strength, patience and attention.

  1. Spend approximately 10-15 minutes sitting on the beach and looking at the water. This will help you to notice the wave pattern and see how the waves break.
  2. Look at professionals to make sure that you are doing everything right.
  3. Then you can go out into the water. The tip here is to never hold the board in front of you but keep it to your side.
  4. Having identified your wave, ride in on the whitewater of broken waves to feel the water.
  5. Turn as soon as you notice the wave approach, so that you can see the shore.
  6. Hop onto the board. Keep in mind that your weight should be centered; otherwise you will be likely to fall down.
  7. Start paddling. Make sure that your movements are powerful. While doing this, wait for the whitewater to carry you in.
  8. When you see the wave, sit down on the board. You should do the so-called ‘eggbeater turn’.
  9. Keeping the tip of the board above the water, make sure that your body is balanced and keep your head up.
  10. Try to match the speed of wave by paddling aggressively.
  11. Pop up on your feet as soon as you understand that you’ve caught the wave.

Equipment and protection

It goes without saying that surfing is an extreme sport, that is why it is of paramount importance to buy some protection and purchase necessary equipment. What do you need?

  • A surfboard, a bag for it and several surf fins to improve your performance.
  • Some surf wax to help you maintain a good grip while riding waves.
  • A leash will serve as a piece of safety equipment.
  • A swimsuit, or a rash guard and board shorts, or a wetsuit. The clothes shoul fit you like a glove.
  • A pair of gloves, boots and a hood. All of this will come in useful if you go surfing in cold waters.
  • Sunscreen is also important to prevent you skin from being affected by the sunrays.

Surf culture

Surfers’ community is diverse and includes both amateurs and professional surfers. Some people consider it to be a recreational activity only while others make their living by it. Surfing culture is known to be dominant in California and Hawaii, USA. Those states offer the best conditions for surfers, that is why sportsmen come here from all parts of the world. Another place where surfing is a significant part of life is Australia, especially New South Wales. Weather conditions there are perfect for this activity.

History

Surfing as a kind of sport appeared many centuries ago. The first to be fond of it were the citizens of the Hawaiian Islands. It was especially popular among the rulers, and influential and rich people. As for the ordinary people, this kind of sport wasn’t accessible for them and they were not allowed to practice it.

The Europeans found out about surfing in the 18th century after the British explorers had visited Tahiti. It made popular in Europe by the Hawaii princess who shared her knowledge with European society. Since then surfing has become the most exciting activity for those who go to the seashore.

This is everything you should know about surfing if you are a beginner. Of course, the more you train, the more experience you will gain and the more you will learn about this activity.

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